New Yorkers are kind and generous. We’re happy to help you find the right time and directions. We will tell you where to find the best bagels. If the transit guy isn’t looking, I’ll give you a ride on my Metrocard. We keep our distance. We maintain a respectful distance. We don’t make eye contact very often.
San Francisco had different rules. Merritt and I were there last week to photograph my cookbook and hang out. I was overwhelmed by the kindness shown to me every day. Everywhere we went, people struck up friendly conversations. I was given a glance by the tall, bearded man who was preparing my barbecue at Dogpatch’s hip spot. He sweetly asked me whether I was wearing an Infinity scarf as I struggled to choose between the kale salad and dirty rice. His eyes lit up when I answered yes. He was excited to talk about the scarf’s many charms and tell me about his scarf purchase. He is a true friend. Infinity scarves are my favorite. Yes! They are my favorite!
Last Wednesday, the kindness of San Francisco almost made my heart burst. It was a busy, tiring day. I was tired and hungry. It felt like a long taxi ride. I had an idea to get Vietnamese takeout at a nearby restaurant. The man answered the phone and told me they were closing. I asked them if they would bring me some food. I promised to be there as soon as I could. He told me to relax, surprise! He said, “No problem.” It was so lovely!
Then I looked in my wallet. There was no money. I cursed to myself and began digging in my purse. The cab driver asked me without prompting if I had any cash. She replied, “I know what it’s like,” and gave me twenty dollars. Unreal. The owner opened the door and said, “Only for me!” before handing me my meal.
It’s something I am well aware of. It could be better in San Francisco, I’m sure. The excellent San Franciscans that I met were genuinely generous. Well, I bought what they were selling.
Merritt and I spent a day exploring San Francisco’s delights a few days later. We stopped by Omnivore Book to purchase a book on classic desserts from 1900. Rice jelly anyone? For hours, we searched for hidden treasures in mountains of old shaving cups and ebelskiver pots at Cookin’. In Mission, we ate authentic burritos. We also had the best layered honey cake at 20th Century Cafe. It was made up of millions of tender little cakes, which were stacked high and covered with a rich honey cream. It is not too sweet. It is perfectly rich. Perfectly portioned in small slices, perfect for sharing. This beauty inspired me to create my homey version. I wanted to replicate a small part of San Francisco at my home. I need something to keep me going until Gus convinces me that we should move.
Five Layer Honey Cream Cake
You don’t need five 8-inch pans. Three is all I have. Bake as many layers as possible, then rinse the pans with cold water and cool them. Next, bake the rest of the layers. You can weigh the batter and then divide it evenly with a scale.
Cakes:
14 tablespoons (1 3/4 sticks), unsalted Butter at room temperature plus more for the pans
1/3 cup honey
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 1/2 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 cup granulated Sugar
2 large eggs plus 2 large egg yolks
3/4 cup whole milk at room temperature
Honey cream:
4 ounces cream cheese at room temperature
1/4 cup honey plus 1 tablespoon
1 cup heavy cream, whipped
To finish:
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
Pre-heat the oven to 350°F Butter as many 8-inch pans as you need (up to five). Butter the parchment, and line them with parchment. Heat the honey in a saucepan on medium heat until it becomes thickened but not bubbly, approximately 1 minute. Mix in the baking soda. Stir with a heatproof spatula. The mixture should be pale and foamy. Stir it constantly for about one minute, until the mixture turns golden. Before the mixture turns a reddish color, take the pot off the heat. Let the honey mixture cool in a bowl.
Mix together the flour, baking powder and salt in a large bowl. Use an electric mixer to beat the Butter and sugar until light and fluffy. This should take about four minutes. Mix in the egg yolks and eggs one at a while, scraping down the bowl between each addition. Add the honey mixture, beating well. Alternately add the flour mixture to the milk, beginning and ending with flour mixture.
Divide the batter equally between the five pans. Smoothen the tops. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes or until the center of one cake springs when lightly pressed. The layers should not be over-baked or they will dry out. Let the cakes cool on a rack for three minutes, then flip them carefully.
Mix the cream cheese, honey and sugar together until smooth. Incorporate the whipped cream in the cream cheese mixture. Layer the layers of cooled cake with honey cream. To serve, sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar.
